Sunday Jewelry Report Card: Tactile Offerings From Charolette Garnett

 

What if there was jewelry that excited the senses and calmed the anxious fingers?  Well, there is, enter Charolette Garnett. Her instagram and jewelry are the focus of our A++ Sunday jewelry report card rating this week. Just looking at her work, which I stumbled upon via instagram, has me a notch calmer. Not to mention taking all of that out, the pieces are just beautiful and sculptural. Charolette is a British graduate and works out of Alexander McQueen Sarabande studios. She is one to watch in the fashion jewelry art world. Her future seems bright. She combines textures, feelings, and emotion into her rings and other pieces. I have a list started of the jewelry I’d love to have that I am including here. Her instagram account was picked by the blog because, although relatively new, it is extremely visually pleasing. There is also something exciting about following someone who is in a phase of grow and will be producing new ideas for us to partake in. Featured recently in publications like Harper’s Bazaar Brazil and more her audience is on the rise.

New previews of things to come via her instagram account!

Her newest objects of desire mix ebony, 18K, bronze, and resin… These “pebbles are quite magical.

My obsession:

Shaun Leane Maker of McQueen’s Armor. Auction and Sale Highlights from His Collection.

Sotheby’s catalogue image.

Classically trained goldsmith Shaun Leane and Alexander McQueen made magic together. I have long admired the fantasy that they created together. The pieces made by Shaun are stunning, oversized, full of whimsy, pain, and pays homage to the idea of armor.   As Alexander McQueen once said,

“I especially like the accessory for its sadomasochistic aspect”…

In one moment all of those intense feelings were expressed via their collaboration during each season. Now with the impending sale of Shaun’s personal archive from the McQueen years, I wanted to revisit his work and some of the iconic pieces that will be presented by the joint Sotheby’s and Kerry Taylor Auctions event.

One of the most interesting quotes concerning how they began comes from an equally great interview via Shaun and hint magazine:

“Lee, how are we going to afford to make jewelry? He said, well we won’t make it in gold. We’ll use other materials like silver or brass or aluminum. If you just apply those skills to other mediums you can create anything. That changed everything for me” (Shaun Leane, hint magazine).  Follow link for more.

They were friends first and both from London, but each embraced the challenge of their work as fashion and art, pushing the boundaries so far that the accessories often held a bit of danger in the wearing of them. Runway pieces took months to complete and models sometimes had to be screwed into their “accessories”.  I admire their work together because they pushed those boundaries, the viewer, and the body to the brink.  I wish I could own every piece. I love how tough they, are as well as how beautifully they armed the wearers. Daphine Guinness describes what it is like to wear his pieces via the Sotheby’s interview about her iconic Shaun made glove which is going to be in this sale:

Whether it be the glove or other accessories, what is it like to wear Shaun’s pieces?
There’s a feeling of being amplified. You’re augmented in the right sense of the word. It is empowering, and I also feel he’s with me. He’s my great friend, and it’s lovely to know I’ve got something of his on me, protecting me like an amulet (Daphine Guinness, via Sephanie Sporn for Sotheby’s). Follow the link for the complete interview.

Here is a quick list of my favorites from the upcoming December auction. All images from the Sotheby’s catalogue-

 

Daphne Guinness Fashion Muse, Collector of Soulful Pieces

The museum at FIT, in NYC, featured an exhibit about the life of Daphine, which ended in January 2012. As they discussed, she was born to the brewery heir Johnathan Guinness in 1967 but came into her own after her divorce:


“In 1987, at the age of nineteen, Daphne married Spyros Niarchos, who was twelve years her senior and the second son of the fabulously wealthy Greek shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos. A year later, she had the first of their three children. According to all accounts, they lived in a gilded yet constrained world, surrounded by bodyguards, traveling by yacht or private jet between homes in St. Moritz, New York, and the family’s island in Greece. After her divorce in 1999, Daphne resumed her maiden name, and over the past decade she has emerged on the world’s stage this extraordinary fashion creature” (Fit Biography).

I love the museum at FIT, as they are always bringing great exhibits, which are current as well as historically significant. They split her styles into types,  including her love of structured armoresque clothing. She is able to shield herself and find herself in fashion. The exhibit highlights, which featured a large quantity of her clothing and quotes, can be found here: Fit exhibit.  She is a fashion icon, collector and artist.  Daphne creates her own fashions when needed and has worked with other companies to create pieces.


To some of you, the auction of her items is old news and to others new information, but either way I wanted to highlight the best sources for images of the auctioned items online while they are still up. The original photographic image above alone, set records. When it was all said and done it had raised 742,000 dollars! Christies, in South Kensington, auctioned off this record breaking collection on June 27th.  The catalogue alone is pure eye candy…yum.  See the Christies link here:

Now her Mcqueen pieces, which will no doubt only increase in value, broke records at the auction.  Alexander Mcqueen is another obvious option for those who want future mind blowing vintage for their collections.  His genius pieces as you can see are already sought after, especially the structural metallic Mcqueen dress sold there. It was also part of the Matt Collishaw Bazaar photo shoot. Please, don’t even get me started on Alexander’s Iris platforms- you can view them in the catalogue below. It is no surprise that Lady Gaga bought at least one piece successfully, as confirmed if not more anonymously.


It is fitting that this auction was in memory of Isabella Blow. It had been rumored that Daphne opposed an auction that would have as she put it “scattered her friend’s memory to the winds”. She feels the collection should be in a museum or for student study.  This auction may have been the compromise.  She purchased the clothing archive after her friend’s death and has revealed it will be exhibited possibly online for all to see. The loss of both friends Blow and Mcqueen to suicide have impacted her life greatly, hence her foundation. As stated in Vogue UK: “I just wanted to preserve who she really was, I had to make sure it was safe. It’s difficult for me to look at it though-it smells of her. Her wardrobe was a narrative of her life”.


I think this is a beautiful as well as very true statement and one of the reasons many of us are attracted to vintage accessories and even fashion in general….that narrative.

Who was Isabella Blow?


She was most famously accredited with discovering Mcqueen at the Saint Martins graduate show in 1994. She was not only his patron and friend, but she was soulful inspiration. She was a fashion editor, stylist who loved to transform her body into sculptural art.  Mcqueen’s creation of some of his amazing head gear, were inspired by her constant head art.  His tribute collection can be seen here in this article: tribute article. Isabella Blow’s quotes and photographs are a joy to take in. Vogue UK did a great bio article and image archive which can be found at this link.


The Auction:

You can find a complete image gallery of the lots in the auction here: Christies.  The Christian Lacroix gown and the opera jacket were amazing!  The 1930s inspired Anna Molinari  and the 1920s inspired Marni sequin dress appealed to my heart.  There were also Christian Lacroix pieces from the 80s included and are certainly considered vintage.  However, as you seen in the title, though many pieces were relatively new in terms of what constitutes a vintage garment– but they are future vintage. The lucky owners will have some of the most iconic fashions of our time worn by an avant guarde icon!

The Girl Who lived in the Tree. Alexander Mcqueen Dress circa 2008-9. Photograph Matt Collishaw, Harper’s Bazaar. From The Daphne Guinness Collection Catalogue.

Just hit view ECatalogue and agree to see the complete catalogue.

Originally published in 2012. Great archive of the fashions from her collection.