Facades: Bill Cunningham- A Book Review

For anyone who has a fascination or admiration for one Mr. Bill Cunningham, then I have a book review for consideration. I decided to revisit a vintage book by the name of Facades done in 1978 by Bill Cunningham, introduced by Marty Bronson with model Editta Sherman. This whimsical book, organized by the enduring and iconic late Bill Cunningham, is a feast for the eyes. Fashion, vintage lovers, and red blooded New Yorkers alike should know what this classic is all about.  In 1948, Bill came to NYC to pursue a career in fashion. Before he dawned his bicycle to capture fashion on the streets of this fair city, he opened shop as a Millinery label William J.  After writing for WWD, he fell into his love of photography as a fashion journalist/ writer at the Chicago Tribune and the rest is history.

1900-1903 Flatiron Building. 5th Ave and 23rd. Designed by Daniel Burnham. Editta Sherman in era undergarments.

Facades, came about, as the book itself references; after 8 years of playing around with this labor of love. In the late 60s, he combined his love of cityscapes and began collecting antique and vintage clothing to photograph in front of architecture throughout the city. But what about a muse? We’ll get back to that key element…. Each era outfit was juxtaposed against the architecture and a chosen setting in the city. Both the clothing and building era correct. I find it intriguing that he thought of such a thing, why clothing? Well, I suppose this was the beginning of him sort of creating street style in the wake of the Seeberger Brothers.

As for muses, it was one alluring Editta Sherman who filled those shoes, lover of period clothing, photographer, mother, and artist. The “Duchess of Carnegie Hall”, referencing her home above Carnegie Hall for decades, cuts a great figure for each image which captures clothing from the 1700s-1960s.

“Bill carefully accessorized all the costumes with the proper shoes, parasols, wire bustles, gloves, and jewelry, sometimes even the underwear. When an authentic period hat was missing, out came his collection of felt, flowers, and ribbon, and he completed the picture with a reproduction based on careful research. The richness of Manhattan’s architectural settings was found beyond his greatest expectations. From Egyptian temples to Russian cathedrals, the locations were scouted by bicycle, Bill’s major means of transportation to this day. Success at matching the appropriate costume with the right location came as much from study as from intuition. Each location was carefully documented and dated through the many books available on the subject and through the files of the city’s architectural records”(Marty Bronson, introduction).

This work represents years of fashion and is in retrospect indicative of Bill’s life, talent, and relationship with the city. There is just so much in this book to look through and read, it is best enjoyed from cover to cover. Each image has a detailed description of the location’s history and era Here is a just a little taste…..

 

Accessories Talk: The Shoe Lined Streets of NYFW SS 17

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New York Fashion Week Moment. Photo by Rachel Guillaume for Sarara Couture.

Every season, what I most look forward to are the accessories we see on the streets. Some of those of course are entering the shows.   Now, it is true that of a few of these are given by the designers to the wearers and represent the runways.  However, the unique interpretations we see outside each fashion week keep us smiling and inspiring. I love what the the models wear in between shows, their own interpretations, the writers, the editors etc.  It’s not about the “trend”, but about how everyone makes their own looks using these little accessories gems.  There were some definite themes and some fun inspiration possibilities this season.  Designers were mixing it up with straight off the runway fall collection availability and change was in the air. We saw metallics shoes and accents, cat eye styles and mirrored sunglasses (hail to the 80s and 90s -yes I remember these- as a baby;) #iwish #oldish), stripes, things also were a bit punk or studded, light denim was about, handbags are smaller and belts are big again, just to summarize a few things we spied. What I love about street style, is in the way everyone seems to be in a rhythm….giving us hints about fashion weeks to come….Yet showing us what can be made wearable. Yes it is a high stakes game, but there are true flashes of brilliance and realism there too.

This time we wanted to pull together some looks we spotted and coveted by accessory type, giving readers some alternatives as to where to find those piece or something similar they desire. There is always a lot of vintage used during fashion week which I applaud, so we will do our best to discuss a few options! One thing is for sure this fall and coming spring seems to be all about the shoes. Embroidered, colorful, metallic, studded, metal details…..it’s time to pamper your foot.

THE SHOE CUT:

New York Fashion Week , SS 17 street style. Rachael Guillaume.

New York Fashion Week , SS 17 street style. Rachel Guillaume shot.

Metallic tennis inspiration!

Metallic tennis inspiration and the power of a good Adidas. Knotted slip on sneaker by No. 21. See link. Rachel G image.

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See through boots by Noelle, feel a bit naughty and I know some anti toe people won’t feel that these are for them. I thought they were unique and let me say pointed heel fans will be happy as they are indeed something we see in the coming year. Rachel Guillaume photo.

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Obsessed with these velvet Prada sandals, just a tad 90s-reminding me of the good old days! Rachel Guillaume photo.

Nina Garcia rocking these bad boys. Prada velvet sandals. Photo by Rachel.

Nina Garcia rocking these bad boys. Prada velvet sandals. Photo by Rachel.

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Rachel Guillaume photo. See more of her photographs via her instagram. Link in photo.

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Gunmetal metallic boots, Spotted on the street and snapped by Rachel. SS17

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Givenchy velvet and mother of pearl boot. Sold out. Snapped by Rachel. SS17.

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Fashion work casual. Caught by Rachel.

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Street style, Givenchy Boot. NYFW SS17. Image by Rachel.

OUR PICKS:

Leather lace up Pom Pom sandals. Zara, link in photo.

Leather lace up Pom Pom sandals. Zara, link in photo.

Anthropologie sneaker. Link in image. Anthropologie photo

Anthropologie sneaker. Link in image. Anthropologie photo

Narcissa by Aldo Shoes. Their "Trezzo" version also fits the bill.

Narcissa by Aldo Shoes. Their “Trezzo” version also fits the bill. Aldo Shoe image, link in image.

Zara red leather mules. There is a saying in the south that only hookers or kids wear red shoes....However red shoes are fun if done right so have a bit of fun this year.

Zara red leather mules. There is a saying in the south that only hookers or kids wear red shoes (there I said it)….However; red shoes can be chic, just in the right dose. Have a bit of fun this year!

ROCHAS Enea Sequined Mary Jane Heels. Via Moda Operandi. Image link.

ROCHAS Enea Sequined Mary Jane Heels. Via Moda Operandi. Image link. These could be an accident waiting to happen, but the scale sequins have me all in….

Spotted on Brian Atwoods instagram (which is a fun follow by the way) Fall16.

Spotted on Brian Atwoods instagram (which is a fun follow by the way) Fall16. Brian Atwood image.

Asos has some great options like these Monki lace ups.

Asos has some great options like these Monki lace ups.

YSL Star sneaker. Image link via Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent Star sneaker. Image link via their website.

Okay so maybe you need a star boot? Saint Laurent star boot, image link.

Okay so maybe you need a star boot? Saint Laurent star boot, image link.

Acne Studios. Adriana Metallic sneakers.

Acne Studios. Adriana Metallic sneakers.

AQUAZZURA Christy shoe. Image Aquazzura Net a Porter.

AQUAZZURA Christy shoe. Image Aquazzura Net a Porter.

Gucci metallic embellished sandal. Net a Porter.

Gucci metallic embellished sandal. Net a Porter.

Adidas Gold! This cool shoot shown via the instagram account of stylist and BHG contributor Deanna.Dewey - The shoe appears to be sold out on Asos but there is an option in the photo link!

Adidas Gold! This cool shoot shown via the instagram account of stylist and BHG contributor Deanna.Dewey – The shoe appears to be sold out on Asos but there is an option in the photo link!

Fenty Puma by Rihanna sneaker boot. Her creepers are also going to be restocked soon!

Fenty Puma by Rihanna sneaker boot. Her creepers are also going to be restocked soon!

Zara silver laminate leather ankle boot.

Zara silver laminate leather ankle boot.

Gucci crossover sandal with snake.

Gucci crossover sandal with snake. Image link via Gucci.

ELLERY Desmond Velvet Boot Via Moda Operandi. link image.

ELLERY
Desmond Velvet Boot
Via Moda Operandi. link image.

Louis Vuitton Sandal, image link via their website.

Louis Vuitton Sandal, image link via their website.

Boots by Balmain.

Boots by Balmain.

VINTAGE FINDS:

YSL vintage denim shoes, on eBay. The kind of great score you can run across.

YSL vintage denim shoes, on eBay. The kind of great score you can run across.

90s Red Velvet Prada Sandals. If you can find these they are a lot of fun for the coming seasons. Image by Sarara Couture. We had them but of course they sold quickly!

90s Red Velvet Prada Sandals. If you can find these they are a lot of fun for the coming seasons. Image by Sarara Couture. We had them but of course they sold quickly!

Times Vixen 1970s Glam Rock Platforms. Available on 1stdibs. See image link.

Times Vixen 1970s Glam Rock Platforms. Available on 1stdibs. See image link.

Hell Hound Vintage, 1990s Floral Doc Martins.

Hell Hound Vintage, 1990s Floral Doc Martins. Docs in black would be a great basic for the fall as well.

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1970s Gold platforms, from Birthday Life Vintage. Size 6.

 

 

 

 

 

NYFW F/W 2016: Accessories Report on the Streets and Runways

High boots, black and a killer bag shot by Hannan Saleh on the street F/W NYFW 2016.

High boots, black and a killer bag shot by Hannan Saleh on the street F/W NYFW 2016.

New York Fashion week F/W 2016-17 brought new looks as fashion goers braved the frigid temperatures and still managed to bring lots of style to the streets.  Rachel Guillaume and Hannan Saleh captured some accessorizing via the streets for us.  We decided to post a plethora fashion accessories and “visual stimulation”. The examples on the runways certainly did not disappoint either.  We seem to be in a transition here back to black for the next season, which let’s face it in New York- black never really goes away….One could really see a sort of chic urban gender neutral and a bit punk inspiration coming from Lynn Ban for Fenty Puma. These accessories are modern and fashion based, yet wearable.  The layering possibilities are endless….. While I personally see accessorizing as finding yourself and style via these pieces daily, one can embrace their own look.  Fashion week brings themes, but also people who march to the beat of their own drum as well. I love looking at the colorful show.  The purpose here is to provide inspiration to the viewer, keep them updated on what is going on in the streets. Although, inherently I love to see someone who adds inspiration into an already understood personal way of dressing and accessorizing as well as the trailblazers  Perhaps, you’ll find something that speaks to you. Enjoy……

Lynn Ban image via her instagram account. Check it out for more styles and looks shown on the runway!

Lynn Ban image via her instagram account. Check it out for more styles and looks shown on the runway!

However, color is here as well, as is the case for Alexis Bittar’s 80s modern accessories for Jeremy Scott! While that is one of the styles shot on the street as well, the runway did also seemed to support the grey black white themes, there was plenty of color in the form of fur/faux fur scarves and accents.  Fendi brought everyone this last week in Europe. In fact Fendi’s looks included accessorized black, textured colorful coats as well as boots.  Boots will be higher, but for those who prefer extreme comfort, larger soled sneakers are still strong. In fact, a more laid back city chic look seems to be taking over as well.  Let’s see what secrets the streets are giving up:

black and white shoes NYFW

Street shot, Rachel Guillaume.

Fade to Black- Here I’m just going to describe the trend as having four main types (chic edgy almost goth), (street smarts-they also enjoy grey), (black and white) and the (optimist-they need a touch of color with their black).

black coat and bag nyfw

Rachel Guillaume photo.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Wardrobe Breakdown Stylist caught in action .Hanna Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

black and white hilton nyfw

Nicky Hilton Rothschild going to Jeremy Scott. Rachel Guillaume photograph.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

scarf details red nyfw

Rachel Guillaume street style photograph.

yellow bag black nyfw 2016

Rachel Guillaume, photograph.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

fur nyfw black details

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

street style urban nyfw

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

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Soon Mooj off duty after DKNY. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

greys and black

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Zanna Roberts Rassi in a great coat! Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Zanna Roberts Rassi in a great coat, playing off the black and white/cream tones. Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Black with those colorful accessories....Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Black with those colorful accessories….Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Warm and Furzy:

fur scarf nyfw 2016

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Korean Vogue editor nyfw

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Anna W Vogue

Anna Wintour walking into Marchesa. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Susie Bubble, okay so not sure this is a fur, but kind of a faux fur! Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Susie Bubble, okay so not sure this is a fur, but kind of a faux fur! Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Fashion editor/writer Eva Chen. Hanna Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Fashion editor/writer Eva Chen. Hanna Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

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Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016. Loving that Gucci bag!

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016. Loving that Gucci bag!

scarf nyfw blue accessories

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

The Accessorized Coat (belts over winter wear and texture, color/pattern to the coat).

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Hannan Saleh street style photograph, NYFW 2016

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Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Accessorized! Love that earring....Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Accessorized! Love that earring….Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016. Color, exciting handbag and there are those high boots!

blackwhite and fur

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Texture print and a pop of color via that Chanel bag! Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Texture print and a pop of color via that Chanel bag! Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

textured print coat nyfw

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

scream queens nyfw

Skyler Samuels. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

glasses Gucci

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

The Modern Miss Lauper- 

color and grey mochino

Sita Bellan- Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Justine Skye Mochino nyfw

Justine Skye going to Jeremy Scott. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

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Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Blond Salad, green Chanel

Why not? Chiara Ferragni from Blonde Salad and her green Chanel bag. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

June super stylist marches to her own drum but I see a bit of the 80s influence here. Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

June Ambrose super stylist marches to her own drum but I see a bit of the 80s influence here. Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

How to apply these styles you love- I have to admit as an accessories gal, I like black. I like to wear it with silver and gunmetal style accessories. I also like big pieces full of color. Win Win… So as for the fashion jewelry and bag game this coming season- you have options. A bag with texture, print/pattern or color can’t be wrong. Metal bags, smaller structured sizes, embellishment seems central to the bag game too. Or you can go with a simpler style bag with black or metal details and embrace the oversized colorful scarf or “fur/faux fur” accessory with it. There are some interesting silver options in chain mail bags and such out there for the upcoming season, the vintage answer to this would be a Whiting and Davis mesh bag 1920s-70s examples.

colorful bags fashion week

Jeremy Scott Bag. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

Jewelry to wear with black- chokers with silver accents, leather jewelry. Also, as we saw on the runways via Fashion Hong Kong; sunglasses with attitude and hair accessories are also an option to experiment with.

Quite frankly obsessed with this Koi fish necklace, proving the strength of a good gold and black combo.

Quite frankly obsessed with this Koi fish necklace, proving the strength of a good gold and black combo. The shape highlights another trend – animal themes in jewelry and bags. Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

I like the idea that outerwear is important this season as well- the patterns, colors and such almost make the coat a “fashion accessory”.  Great modern shaped earrings can compliment this “coat centric” look, add a chunky scarf or a belt.

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Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

coat action

Rachel Guillaume photograph NYFW 2016.

What about the Men?

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

Hannan Saleh photograph, street style F/W NYFW 2016.

While our focus was primarily upon women’s fashion accessories, some men are embracing a more laid back approach: fashion styles actually overall seem to be more gender neutral so to speak, but the trends still apply as we see below with Jeremy Scott. Men we know you love your jeans and it’s all about denim, but you can’t go wrong mixing it up and adding some great eye wear as well. It’s never a bad idea in terms of men’s accessories, to go with color on the foot, while embracing all these darker hues for the upcoming f/w 2016-17 season. Not to forget, the classic black and white sneaker never dies. Don’t get me started on man bags…..

Jeremy Scott nyfw 2016

Jeremy Scott. Street style photo by Rachel Guillaume for Sarara Couture. NYFW F/W 2016.

Fashion Week Accessories Street Style 2016- Personal Favorites!

Street shot, now I must say turquoise is a personal favorite color so I cannot get enough. Hannan Saleh image.

Street shot, now I must say turquoise is a personal favorite color so I cannot get enough. Hannan Saleh image.

I’ve already wrapped up our street style and SS 2016 accessories forecast report for New York on and off the runway…. However; I really couldn’t get enough of street style this season, so I decided to conclude my accessories inspiration extravaganza with some of my favorite looks as shot by the lovely Hannan Saleh, for us at Sarara Couture.  I think a blogazine like this one, needs to showcase how individuals interpret and wear jewelry, hats, bags, shoes, rings and beyond.

I love personalized items- that is pieces that we find that speak to us for whatever reason.... Hannan photograph. 2016

I love personalized items- that is pieces that we find that speak to us for whatever reason…. Hannan photograph. 2016

 

Why do we wear accessories? What role do they play in our daily lives. For some of us we have a fear of them and how to wear them, for others they are part of the dialogue that makes us who we are. I am one who feels naked without them.  Accessories are truly part of our material culture- physical objects that offer clues about our cultures and ideologies. They speak to our roles in society, beliefs, gender and status…. I think as the international fashion week scene wrap up and Paris begins and ends there is still a bit more room for a little New York inspiration.  This city offers a panorama of visual stimulus and messages through accessories.  Hannan has a great eye for those moments, so enjoy a curated look at my personal favorite NYFW street style highlights from SS 2016. These are the things I would wear, inspire from and adore regardless of the trends.  All below images were shot by Hannan- so let’s discuss-

NYFW SS2016, the perfect sunglass look. Captured by Hannan.

NYFW SS2016, the perfect sunglass look. Captured by Hannan.

Bag envy, captured at NYFW, street style image. Hannan.

Bag envy, captured at NYFW, street style image. Hannan.

Layered necklaces and an a modern take on the 1970s.

Layered necklaces and an a modern take on the 1970s makes this so appealing to me.

Giovanna Battaglia fashion editor wearing the best little golden bow belt! Hannan Saleh photo.

Giovanna Battaglia fashion editor wearing the best little golden bow belt! Hannan Saleh photo.

Gucci and snake rings...yes..

Gucci and snake rings…yes.. As seen on Natalie Joos.

Accessories inspiration in an easy breezy knotted scarf. Hannan photograph.

Accessories inspiration in an easy breezy knotted scarf. Hannan photograph.

The style maker in an easy vintage inspired flight suit look/jumper and a touch of silver and gold.

The style maker Sarah Rutson in an easy vintage inspired flight suit look/jumper and a touch of silver and gold.

TK wonder and her twin Cipriana Quann style it up in an effortless way. The models and Vogue contributors are a street style duo that continue to heat up the pavement!

TK wonder and her twin Cipriana Quann style it up in an effortless way. The models and Vogue contributors are a street style duo that continue to heat up the pavement!

A little yellow Chanel bag never hurt anyone....

A little yellow Chanel bag never hurt anyone….

NYFW street style image 2016. One of my favorites for the pop of red and the Lanvin necklace used in a unexpected combo of urban western.

NYFW street style image 2016. One of my favorites for the pop of red and the Lanvin necklace used in a unexpected combo of urban western.

Big green rings...

Big green rings…

Can't get enough of big mod silver cuffs ever....

Can’t get enough of big mod silver cuffs ever….

Perfectly placed belt!

Perfectly placed belt!

Arm candy and a good smile. Great accessories inspiration.

Arm candy and a good smile. Great accessories inspiration.

Love everything about this necklace and look!

Love everything about this necklace and look! I mean what is this bag, where can I find one?

A little 60s bag inspiration.

A little 60s bag inspiration.

Men can accessorize too, good mix up.

Men can accessorize too, good mix up.

This red Valentino bag and basics is a great reminder of jeans, white and a pop of color in our main accessory goes a long way.

This red Valentino bag and basics is a great reminder of jeans, white and a pop of color in our main accessory goes a long way.

Stacked necklaces is always fun and adds a personal touch.

Stacked necklaces is always fun and adds a personal touch.

Long earrings in a fresh fun way.

Long earrings in a fresh fun way.

 

Fashion Polar Vortex: Accessories, Street Style, Fashion Celebs and NYFW 2015

Love this NYFW-Fall/Winter 2015 street style image by Hannan Saleh. So very Fashion week meets Sex in the City.....

Love this NYFW-Fall/Winter 2015 street style image by Hannan Saleh. So very Fashion week meets Sex in the City…..

With the what feels like longest February ever, which still has not totally thawed and a freezing fashion week behind us in New York, I wanted to do a post on all of the looks caught via Hannan Saleh’s lens.  Not just the current and coming trends, but the creative looks seen on the streets during this NYFW FW 2015. She snapped the style of well known attendees, from bloggers, editors to models- like Man Repeller, Natalie Joos of Tales of Endearment, Susie Bubble, Laura Brown of Harper’s Bazaar, Eva Chen of Lucky, Gigi Hadid, as well as Zanna Roberts Rassi and Nina Garcia as they zipped in and out of the shows. Too many really, to list, but you will recognize many fashion faces below! Hannan is becoming known for her street fashion photos. She has a keen eye and is a quick shot. There are definitely lots of winter colors, coats, bags, scarves, glasses, shoes and hat inspiration. These ideas can most definitely be used as we ride out the last cold weeks of winter into spring. And the bags and sunglasses well, those are fair game all year!

Hannan Saleh, street style image.

Hannan Saleh, street style image.

 

 

 

 

Not to mention most of those accessories can be applied next winter, as the looks worn by many were in the spirit of the season being shown on the runways aka Fall/Winter 2015. Besides, The Cut, just awarded their best looks to winners and gave out the peacock award, so it seemed like there was a window to talk street style again! I’ve tried to compile a series of her images, that I know you’ll enjoy and items I’d love to wear. (*All images Hannan Saleh, rights reserved). They capture perfectly the spirit of New York fashion week -so without further ado- Who would you choose for best accessories? Hit the Continue Reading link below to see the complete slideshow!

 

Continue reading

Estate Jewelry and The Country

 

 Antique Cameos, J.E. Heaton Jewelers. Joyce always seems to have a good selection.

Outside the limits of New York city exists a world called the Hudson Valley, rolling farms, horses, artists, and the ever enduring river. About an hour and half from NYC, is Millbrook a sleepy little town with the cutest historic village and a relaxed way of life. It boasts “Horse country” estates, locals, and New Yorkers trying to escape into that slower pace.  This is where we find J. E. Heaton jewelers.

 

1940s Fur Clip, Earrings, and ring/ 14K and Citrine, rubies.

This woman owned business in the heart of the village, brings a refreshing mix of older, custom, as well as new fine quality pieces.  Joyce is descended from store owners in a way, ( she has an interesting historic image hanging up of the Heaton Shoes store circa 1900.  Her store has a boutique feel with a clean aesthetic and a quite well curated estate section. This section’s focus seems to be that of the art deco period and the Victorian.She can often be caught wearing stunning Victorian gold pieces from her own collection.  She both finds and well as consigns these unique estate pieces from local families and other sources.

 

Victorian Gold examples from the shop, last image shows cuff links transformed into earrings.

She can often be caught wearing stunning Victorian gold pieces from her own collection.  She both finds and well as consigns these unique estate pieces from local families and other sources.

Group of three late Victorian bouquet diamond pins.

Her eye for quality pieces is obvious when looking at her vintage Taxco items, Victorian gold, Edwardian and art deco diamonds. She was even lucky enough to have sold many diamond pieces from the estate of a real Ziegfeld gal.

Bracelet, art deco 20s example from the private collection of a Ziegfeld Follies  girl’s descendant.

It was her personal array of Victorian pieces she often modeled, that led me to ask where her love of estate and Victorian fine pieces came from? She wanted to answer that question in the form of a letter to her mother which paints a lovely and personal view concerning how her eye for the pieces was molded.

Dear Momma,

I am so thankful for everything you gave me, including your love of jewelry.

One of my earliest memories is of you getting dressed to go to a party. I climbed on top of the big bed and watched, fascinated by all the doings of adults. With your hair done up, and your makeup on, you carefully lifted an evening gown over your head, letting it fall gracefully. On went the heels. A final primping, and then a quick spritz of hair spray followed by perfume. Then it happened: THE drawer was opened. Out came a series of the most magnificent, shiny adornments I’d ever seen. One by one you put them in place and checked your reflection in the mirror, smiling softly as you looked at me watching you.

When I was eight, you gave me a real gold ring with a garnet. I loved the way it looked. I loved that it made me feel grown up. I took that ring off when I was carving my Halloween pumpkin that year and lost it among the orange innards, never to be found again. We looked for days and days.

When I was fifteen years old, you gave me an unusual ring from the safe. It had belonged to a long ago family member. It was a gold band with sections cut out of it, like a pie crust. Barely visible inside was woven hair. I’d never seen anything like it… I was intrigued by the use of hair as a remembrance of a loved one. Why did they do this? How did they do this?

When I was seventeen, you came home from the Pleasant Valley Auction Hall with a beautiful gold bracelet. It was made up of links that became a Chinese dragon, with a ruby in the eye. I was dazzled by the beauty and artistry of the piece. It was a moment when I knew we shared the same taste.

Christmas one year you gave me a Victorian love knot ring with a tiny turquoise stone in the center. I loved the intricate way the loops of gold fell over each other. Later that year, for my eighteenth birthday, you gave me a Victorian engagement ring. It had an unusually cut stone (which I now know was an old mine cut), held in place by regal looking prongs. Inside were the initials of my great-grandmother, Lavinia Ida Pray and her husband-to-be, Charles Duncan. I feel as though they are with me when I wear that ring.

Dearest Momma, is it any wonder I love what you loved? When I look at fine estate jewelry it takes me back to the joyful moments we shared. I only wish you were here now to see what your love has lead to…

Thank you.

Joyce from J.E. Heaton Jewelers, Inc.

Art Deco Diamond engagement ring, J.E. Heaton Jewelers. 

The Costume Jewelry Collection of Barbara Berger: Taking on the World of Fashion Jewelry

Trifari, 40s Fruit Salad Bracelet.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

What attracts us wearers and collectors of jewelry to costume pieces? Many important costume jewelry collections are owned by those who can certainly afford the real thing, Barbara herself was the daughter of a diamond merchant/jeweler.   One is free to re-imagine themselves when they wear it. That is why I wear it and the bigger the better. I personally have always thought why wear jewelry if you can’t enjoy it or see it?  I love ethnic designs/statement pieces and Iris Apfel has always been an icon to me. I came to find out this adoration of the statement piece and Iris, I also shared with Barbara as well. Costume jewelry lets the design and intention really shine. As Barbara pointed out, “the construction is often similar to that of fine pieces”, She painted an image to me during her talk, that she feels there seems to be no bounds to it and that it sort of is freeing or liberating. 

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938.Ostrich pendants. Circus collection.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

Barbara Berger has put together one amazing collection and David McFadden, Chief Curator, and Harrice Simons Miller, Guest Curator along with Dorothy Globus, Curator of Exhibitions have organized one stunning show.  Harrice Simons Miller is a consultant to Christies and was brought in to appraise and catalog Elizabeth Taylor’s costume jewelry as well. She wrote the first book I ever bought about collecting and valuing costume jewelry. Collectors may also remember her fab book on Kenneth Jay Lane jewelry!

Miriam Haskell, late 50s example from the Berger collection. Also featured in Miriam Haskell Jewelry by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff. It is a sort of Haskell holy grail piece. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

Barbara’s life work and passion spoke for themselves at the opening and her discussion with the curators at MAD museum New York. This collection has never been shown in the United States.  I was there, practically running in, as the doors opened on the show.  The full scale of her archive reaches beyond 4,000 pieces and growing. The exhibition houses 450 well chosen iconic examples including jewelry by: Lanvin, Miriam Haskell, Valentino, Coppola e Toppo, Pucci, Kenneth Jay Lane, Countess Zoltowska/Cis, Oscar de La Renta, Mimi Di N. Balenciaga, Maison Gripoix, Marcel Boucher, Trifari, Pierre Cardin, Chanel (she owns one of the most important collection of Chanel jewelry),David Mandel, Lawrence Vrba, Iradj Moini,Joseff-Hollywood, Robert Sorrell, Elsa Schiaparelli and many more. The list includes fantastic vintage examples and recent new designers.  If you are a collector or wearer you may have become a little dizzy at the thought, I know I did when I entered the show. I was literally drunk on jewelry from costume to couture to everything in between.

Chanel feather necklace, Barbara Berger collection. Sarara Vintage image.

Barbara, began collecting after her mother’s death at about age 13. She acquired Chanel earrings at a Parisian flea market. They reminded them of her mother, her style, essence and way of putting herself together.  From the beginning, you can see that fashion jewelry meant something to her on a personal level. She remembers where she got each piece and their stories.  She falls in love with the presence and aesthetic of each example of the jewelry she purchases for the collection. It has to speak to her, be a statement piece, scale and size matters….. She made it clear at her talk that she doesn’t just buy a piece for the collection because it is signed, it has to have that something that makes it great.  She wasn’t focused on the history but the essence.  She even admits that for the exhibit she left the historical research to Harrice.  

As Barbara stated at the “All the Brilliant Facets” talk:

“The size of the jewelry is important, because jewelry gives a woman power, it has to be dramatic. A woman has to feel she can take on the world.  I collect dream jewelry”. (Barbara Berger, All the Brilliant Facets”).

Mimi Di N, 60s-70s. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva


Barbara’s passion as well as creative insight
 can be seen through this very extensive collection. She will be donating some examples to the 
Museum of Arts and Design at 2 Columbus Circle, permanent archives in NYC. Now with the publication of Fashion Jewelry the Collection of Barbara Berger, published by Assouline,  Barbara has a beautifully photographed accompaniment to the exhibition. I purchased a signed copy of the book at the exhibit and it is indeed a visual feast.

Cover jewelry by Daniel Von Weinberger, 2008-9.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

During her talk at Mad on Thursday, she and the rest of the panel involved, including Harrice, illuminated the history of the collection and how it was organized.  Harrice’s story of how costume jewelry, as a phrase, was born through Hobe’s relationship with costume design/film was interesting. “It was jewelry for the costumes, made for Florenz Ziegfeld”  she said.  Barbara also painted a colorful story of her life through jewelry.  Many of her friends, interesting comrades, and fellow jewelry lovers were present. Designers whose jewelry is in the exhibition Iradj Mioni, David Mandel and Robert Sorrell were counted among the attendees.  Iradj and Robert were very interesting to talk to in their own right and I can see why Barbara counts them among friends.  It was clear the designers themselves are important to her, as she included living and contemporary makers in the exhibit. The show represents around 80 designers.  She wore stunning large Iradj earrings and one of her own designs in the form of a brooch pictured below, as she talked to the audience. 

Barbara Berger, left with me before the discussion, image Sarara Vintage
Chanel piece from the Mad Museum exhibit. Berger collection. Sarara Vintage image.

Barbara’s credo spoken at the talk was to mix fine with costume jewelry and to try to always wear earrings. “Ears are a very sexy part of a woman’s body”.   She mused about the hunt, the creation of her collection, and the genius of Miriam Haskell. 

Frank Hess, Miriam Haskell 1954.PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

                                                                   The Exhibit:

Entry way image, contemporary designer body armor style necklace. Sarara Vintage image.
William DeLillo necklace, vintage 1969. From the exhibit. Image Sarara Vintage.
Exhibit entrance, displays. Sarara Vintage, rights reserved.
Pucci by Coppola e Toppo necklaces, 1960s. Sarara Vintage image.

My impression from the beginning was that they created a jewelry show that relayed the history and passion of costume and fashion. The displays were so well done, hanging examples in cases allowed one to see the pieces from all angles, large necklaces were hand knotted onto plum backdrops and hung seamlessly, cases allowed the pieces to be viewed without distraction or clutter.  There were even drawers full, a bonus selection to look through so to speak, covered in lucite cases. I do want to make it clear that the pieces in the drawer are not part of Barbara’s collection, which was also mentioned to me at the talk as well.  They belong to the museum’s permanent collection just to keep it clear as you view them. 

1960s Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne examples. Barbara Berger collection, MAD museum.
Valentino, 1970s. Made by Coppola e Toppo. Exhibit example. Sarara Vintage image.
Stunning 1920s-30s examples. Barbara Berger Collection. Sarara Vintage image.
1980s Chanel pendant, one of my favorite pieces. Sarara Vintage image, right reserved.
Miriam Haskell. Barbara Berger Collection. Sarara Vintage image.
David Mandel, 2000. Necklace detail. From exhibit. Sarara Vintage image.
Paco Rabanne, vintage necklace 1980s-90s. Barbara Berger exhibit.
Chanel section at the exhibit, various Maison Gripoix for Chanel examples featured.
Maggy Rouff, 50s-60s. Made by Maison Gripoix. Another favorite of mine from the exhibit. Sarara Vintage image.
Maison Gripoix, 2000. PHOTO CREDIT: © Pablo Esteva

I hope you enjoyed the exclusive images from inside the event and quotes by Barbara from her talk. I hope to finish up an interview with her at a future date, when she is back from her travels. Stay tuned as I’ll repost another article if that comes to fruition.  My advice if you are captivated by the images and depth of the show presented here, would be to take a boat, plane, carriage, walk no run to the show before it closes.   I have included various examples not in the text, and there are many others in both the text and exhibit still to see. The exhibit is truly a break from the mundane into a fantasy world of paste stones, cut glass and beyond. Follow me on instagram to see even more images from the show and a slew of designer and couture jewelry as they come into the shop




MAD Museum press release and information:


Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger will be an eye-opening presentation of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, many of them one-of-a-kind, drawn from the world-renowned collection of Barbara Berger. Featured designers include Kenneth Jay Lane, Lanvin, Missoni, Oscar de la Renta and Pucci. The exhibition will be on view at the Museum of Arts and Design from June 25 through September 22, 2013 (a portion of the exhibition will remain open until January 20, 2014).

Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger is organized by David McFadden, William and Mildred Lasdon Chief Curator at the Museum of Arts and Design, in collaboration with jewelry historian Harrice Simons Miller, as guest curator.

Support for Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger generously provided by Miriam Haskell, with additional support from KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, the official airline of MAD.

PUBLICATION

The exhibition is accompanied by a lavishly illustrated publication on the Berger collection published by Assouline in 2013 titled Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger. The book includes forewords by Pamela Golbin and Iris Apfel and an essay on the history of fashion jewelry in the Berger Collection by Harrice Miller.

*** ORIGINALLY Published 7/11/13- part of the archives transferred from our original blog site.

The Jewelry of Art Smith

Art Smith, of Jamaican decent and cuban birth, moved to the United States, New York City/Brookyln to be specific in the 1920s.  Considered an important early American jewelry designer, he produced some of the most beautiful modernist work. He has also been recognized as the first “African American” jewelry designer. This year the MFA presented some of his work in their exhibit and the Brookyln museum also summarized in their coverage:

Knuckle Duster ring, Art Smith. 1968. Brooklyn museum.


“Inspired by surrealism, biomorphicism, and primitivism, Art Smith’s jewelry is dynamic in its size and form. Although sometimes massive in scale, his jewelry remains lightweight and wearable. The jewelry dates from the late 1940s to the 1970s and includes his most famous pieces, such as a “Patina” necklace inspired by the mobiles of Alexander Calder; a “Lava” bracelet, or cuff, that extends over the entire lower arm in undulating and overlapping forms; and a massive ring with three semi-precious stones that stretches over three fingers.

Trained at Cooper Union, Art Smith, an African American, opened his first shop on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village in 1946. One of the leading modernist jewelers of the mid-twentieth century, Smith was also an active supporter of black and gay civil rights, an avid jazz enthusiast, and a supporter of early black modern dance groups”. (From the exhibit and online article- Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith-Brooklyn Museum).

Boa, by Art Smith.1964. Brooklyn museum image.
Lava, 1946. Art Smith. Brooklyn Museum image. 

By the 1950s he had coverage in magazines like Harpers Bazaar and Vogue. He sold to celebrity clientele as well as-one of the most noted cases, Eleanor Roosevelt for whom he designed a brooch.  During the 1960s his style grew to include significant use of sterling silver. Recognized over and over from jewelry text to exhibits and awards, needless to say he is of interest to anyone who collects or appreciates jewelry. Examples currently for sale, can be viewed online and in Hudson, NY.   So hope you enjoyed, this little visual feast of images of some of my favorite examples of his work. I think it is safe to say that many a collector, myself included, might do many a thing for my favorite piece, this necklace: 

Ellington Necklace, 1962- online image from the Brooklyn museum site.

Ellington Necklace, 1962- online image from the Brooklyn museum site.