NYFW AW 19 Accessories Roundup

shot by Hannan Saleh for Sarara Couture

I love a good New York Fashion week street style eye candy minute. The creatives come out to the shows and bring with them a smoke show. Its an accessories wonderland. There are always moments where you notice, great mind thinking alike! This season there were some definite style themes and some true originals. Thematically speaking: two bags are better than one, color- color- color, we aren’t done with earrings or excess, its all about the hair, we love the 1980s, feathers, neon, punk all that goes with it… The shoe was still star in many ways, but a fair amount were the chunky white sneaker, chains….. For the industry street style is often an indicator of what is to come so they look for cues in these little moments.

For the wearer, from fashion lovers to the practical person; these images should bring you some joy either way. We also try to capture an inclusive view of style: different sizes, genders, ethnicities, and points of view!

So enjoy:

Susie Bubble
Amy Song

@nyclavish
As seen in In Style. @Scarlett Halo in Sarara Couture earrings
@theyetravels



MY JEWELRY NYFW AW 19 STREET STYLE:
@greivy.nyc from the cut and her instagram feed.
From @lehoarder’s instagram feed.
From @karina.nyc instagram feed.
From @Melissavdale
@shopwearrepeat
@greivy.nyc at Alice and Olivia
@lehoarder NYFW AW 19
@tijanastyle
@lehoarder featured in L’Officiel NYFW round up

African Hair As Art: Identity and Hair jewels

 

Photograph by Sergio Guerra. 2002.

As part of our anthropology of jewelry posts, I will continue to use my actual degree every once and a while! Lately the questions concerning African hair styles today and identity has come up more and more on instagram.  Actually, it is the control of those styles in Africa and the New World, which is the topic of interest, not just beauty standards.  People are exploring their roots, identity, and asking questions concerning why natural African hairstyles have been censored in both the U.S. and on the African continent through history. As a doctor with experience in visual anthropology and the colonization of indigenous people using stereotypes and visual control, I see clear parallels.  In Africa, the many specific individual cultures often identified themselves and their tribal membership through hair styles. If one wanted to colonizes those groups, the first thing was often an attack on physical cultural traits, then language and so on.

I wanted to explore the beauty and symbolism behind hairstyles in Africa and how they were brought to the new world, using a text from Brazil called Cabelos de Axe. Identity and Resistance, by Raul Lody. In Brazil, they have some of the most detailed records and drawings made by European explorers of the cultures they encountered, still archived. One example is indeed hair and scarification practices on the slaves brought to Brazil. The drawings preserved, are a record of their practices.  Why is this important? Today, when I see young black people discussing the pressure to “tame” their hair or fit certain standards, I see that the real issues of can become clouded in discussions of beauty.

Hair was about not only identifying your group membership, it referred to age, gender, status, specific familial traits, and changed depending on important group events or rituals. Hair styles were shaved in different variations, wrapped, shells added or not added, braided, animal and natural materials were used to adorn it. Understanding material culture can become power in today’s climate, as many different groups in a global world negotiate their identities and learn to live with each other in productive ways. As Raul Lody points out in his text, “Africa” consists of 434 languages and dialects and 5 larger regions. Thus, highlighting the diversity found in attire and hair.  He continues to go into the history of slavery in Brazil, and its relationship to sugar cane and coffee. This is a very interesting and detailed history, but in order to explore more of these rare images I’ve focused on them.  I will credit the explorer or artist in each section, although many images are from this text.

French and European painters like Debret and Rugendas saw Brazil through the lens of their own cultures. There was a certain exoticism, romanticism, savage versus the colonial context to their purpose for documenting the populations of the country. That said, they did record some very interesting cultural traits, as the slaves fought to maintain their identity. I ran across these images of African people in the new world, during my doctoral studies, while researching imagery associated with mixed indigenous and indigenous Brazilian subjects. While I focused on stereotypes and visual anthropology, the details concerning the material culture they recorded has remained in my mind. Here is a round up of what I deem relevant images in this regard from Jean Baptiste Debret, Rugendas, and a few others from this period.

 

Rugendas:

Rugendas drawings, found in Lody’s text.

 

Jean Baptiste Debret:

Debret drawings featured in Lody’s text.

Jean Baptiste Debret lithograph.

Debret drawings featured in Lody’s text.

African Photographs from Raul Lody’s text:

 

S/S19 NYFW Accessories Street Style Run Down

 

I’m proud to say our fringe, eye, and feather earrings made the cut and were worn by various street style stars during fashion week.  See our instagram account for more! The street style this season signaled a perspective founded in colors and fun.  I couldn’t help reminiscing after seeing those little 90s throwback style dresses with chunky black shoes or white sneakers. These “ugly/pretty” tennis shoes were all over! Labels and leopards as well as sparkle… Overall, the accessories were playful and very maximalist.

Caroline headed to Tadashi Shoji in our Let them Eat Cake Earrings.

Gina of Hunts for styles in our Snake charmer hoops.

Christie Ferrari in the good luck eye earrings.

Aimee of Song of Style in our eyes.

Scarlette Halo in our feathers!

LeHoarder in my eyes, little fashion stylist, and recycled stardust during NYFW.

Personality abounded and it was fun to see what everyone came up with as they rushed from show to show. The Sarara Couture Accessoreis round up, was shot for us by Rachel and Hannah for all of you accessories lovers. We caught the shoes, bags, and jewels on the fashionable streets of NYFW, so without further ado:

Hannan

 

Samantha of the Eye Travels.

Courtney Trop, Molly and Reese.

Elizabeth of Accessories Expert in vintage Chanel.

@Batgio with lots of accessories style in a chic way!

Style star Lauren Kulchinsky Levinson.

The Eye Travels star again in black!

 

Rachel

 

Essence Fashion Event:

Phylicia Alvarez.

 

Street Style Shots

Anna Wintour.

 

Anna Dello Russo and crew.

Susie Bubble.

Caroline Daur and her Dinosaur earrings!

Vic Mensa.

Anthropology of Jewelry: A Look at Jewelry Worn in Tibetan Buddhist Sculpture

Gorgeously detailed set of doors displayed at the Rubin, looks similar to Yama depicting death, the lord of Impermanence (Death). However with the flaming eyebrows appears to be Mahakala a wrathful but more gentle Tibetan icon. He protects monasteries. So this explains him being on an old monastery door.

Buddism in its early inception in India, was not particularly visually represented as much as it was practiced or taught. As it spread, the use of sculpture and idols, as well as art in various forms became central to its expression, especially in Tibet. Buddism is ultimately about death, birth, and what we do in the world of the living. Key symbols like the wheel, which is said to have been part of the origins of Buddhism, are seen throughout the art forms. The wheel is complex, relating to death, which is often depicted in artwork along with a demonic style figure called Yama. This shows our lives are ruled by core principles like impermanence, suffering, rebirth, and passion. All of these elements can help us grow. There are “realms or levels” and 6 worlds depicted in the wheel. The Bhavachakra or wheel is often found on textiles and outside temples.  All of Buddha’s teachings are symbolically illustrated so that one can ultimately follow a path to liberation from the earthly elements that bind us, these teachings unite all creatures not just humans, to an ultimate possible Nirvana.  To try to explain all of Buddhism here is an impossibility, and most certainly a book, course, and lifetime is needed to grasp it entirely. So, for those interested in learning more about the history of Buddhism and Tibetan practices, I am including a list of suggested readings in this post.

Sculpture and Jewelry:

In terms of adornment and symbolism, the Tibetan sculptures are rich. I want to focus on the jewelry worn in the sculptures in an attempt to understand the relationship between religion, cultures, and adornment. What can we learn? Well, to start I went to see an exhibit on Tibetan Buddhism, textiles, and sculpture at the Rubin museum of art in New York. These objects were once used in a spiritual context and the deities they represent are invoked, see this Christies article for more.  I toured some exhibits and permanent installations, as their focus is on Himalayan examples. What did I see?

Interestingly enough the snake which I so love in the form of jewelry, has the meaning of one of the three fires which keep us from enlightenment in life (greed, ignorance, and hatred).  They hold fast to each other in a circle. This can be seen in the Dharma wheel (a visual representation of Buddha’s core teachings).  These obstacles prevent a good rebirth. Depending on what kind of level you are reborn into, the animal or human etc reflects the level of suffering one may endure. In the wheel, even gods can die and exist on a lower level than those who escaped this cycle.  Thus, with so many levels and beings trying to work their way out, it is believed that those on the animal realm should be treated considerately by humans.

The Dharma Wheel and Jewelry:

The statues depict the second Buddha, Buddha, and forms that have escaped the cycles of the wheel or life and death.  Many statues sit on a lotus flower in these pieces, which symbolizes having grown above the attachments of life. I think we can deduce that the earrings and hats have a strong symbolic significance for the figures as they repeat throughout. Notably, these Dharma wheel style earrings are very interesting as they are found in quite a few examples at the Rubin. There are eight raised circular areas in this earring’s overall circle, with one central stone. Possibly, a reference to the eight spokes or paths coming from the center.

Padmasambhava or the second Buddha as he is sometimes referred wearing symbols like the sun and moon on his hat. The moon symbolizing liberation. The hat as the museum description below states is a symbol for his lotus birth.

However, in the piece below the earring features 6 turquoise stones. These could symbolize 6 realms on that wheel. Again, the center of the wheel being the circle in which we find the 3 poisons or fires. The wheel is believed to have been designed by Buddha, so its symbols are important additions to such statues.

Note the body jewelry used to adorn this figure. On this object the jewelry has the appearance of another wheel in the middle.

 

The Monster: While there is the death symbol, as described here below-there are deities that set up obstacles, but also protect tantric traditions.

The skull adornment on this figure in the form of a crown and necklace is central to the theme. We see skulls on Yama, but this figure doesn’t quiet appear to be him, but the skulls remind us of death and impermanence.

 

The Tantric:

 

Again the crown appears to be the most symbolic featuring skulls, the rest of the jewelry seems to be more for beauty or in the popular styles of the time. These royal style jewels and crowns are indicators of the tantric deities.

For tantric deities that are female, the pose and belts seem to highlight the importance of that female power. Again the jewelry is beautifully done.

The amount of jewelry here again signals status and tantric deities. Firstly all of the jewelry present is quite striking. There is body jewelry that can be seen again across the stomach and legs.

Symbols are held in the hands as well, I think I see the lotus in one hand.

 

Turquoise:

This has been a fruitful exercise in the exploration of how jewelry is central to social cues, religions, genders, and power. The fact that jewelry was so intricately done and included in these relics indicates the importance of their role in Tibet. They took the time to not only include them, but to set stones like turquoise inside the examples.  Turquoise in Tibet is a stone which relates to the soul, symbolizes a higher status, is worn by brides, used in amulets ( some of the earrings and such above have an appearance similar to Tibetan amulets), and is related to prosperity and wellness.

The Rubin Museum in New York city houses some amazing examples and revolving exhibits. Their bookstore is also very interesting! I hope to continue to explore the anthropology of jewelry again soon.

TEXTS:

Awakening from the Daydream. David Nichtern.

Zen Mind Beginner’s Mind. Suzuki Roshi

The Art of Happiness. The Dalai Lama

The Tibetan Book of Living and Dying. Sogyal Rinpoche.

The Teachings of Buddha. Jack Kornfield.

Tibetan Religious Art Book. Antoinette K. Gordon.

Buddist Symbols in Tibetan Culture: An Investigation of the Nine Best-Known Groups of Symbols. Dagyab Rinpoche.

The Art of Buddhism: An Introduction to Its History and Meaning. Denise Patry Leidy.

Ulrich von Schroeder’s complete set: Indo-Tibetan Bronzes.

Links

Sunday Jewelry Report Card: Fred Leighton, Glamourous Jewelry Destination

Today’s jewelry report card I wanted to revisit my trip to Fred Leighton in New York. The iconic store has been around since its 1970s inception when it was an eclectic and chic boutique. I first visited and posted on the shop’s gorgeous diamond and antique babbles in 2015 during the earlier years of the blogazine and Sarara Couture on instagram. I was covering the red carpet and the Academy Awards jewelry.  For me Leighton jewels is the perfect jewelry report card A++ account to follow and fine jewelry shop to buy from, due to their long well established history of quality.  Thus, I thought I would take you back to this wonderful trip and shop some new pieces on @leightonjewels. Today, Fred Leighton jewelry is also very focused on the new line that they have created which we will also shop below. Trust me when I say though, they are still the spot for mouth watering Art Deco, Victorian, and Mid Century stunners as well. In my experience they carry some of the best mid century examples. The brand’s vintage and new pieces are carried in various department stores and online. But as you will read in the original article below our shopping guide, nothing quite compares to a trip inside the Madison Avenue store!

Shopping the New Line-What We Covet:

Why We Follow (For that Jaw Dropping Antique and Vintage Jewelry):

*All above images belong to Fred Leighton Jewelry, via their website and instagram. Below images attributed.

Read the 2015 Article Below:

Antique Snake Cuff

Stunning French intertwined serpent cuff worn by Maggie Gyllenhaal to the Golden Globes this year. Dates to the late 19th century. Photo by Sara of Sarara Couture.

When one thinks of Fred Leighton, a New York landmark, glamour should come to mind. While they have a retail presence online, from 1stdibs to Net-A-Porter, nothing quite does it for a girl or (guy for that matter) like gazing at the babbles from inside their lovely chic salon on Madison Avenue. The crisp glass jewelry cases are organized, in general, by eras. Each one is carefully arranged over the rich art deco back drop of some of the shop’s original architecture.

Fred Leighton

Fred Leighton salon image, Sarara Couture.

 

Their collection spans from Georgian jewelry to current pieces that they custom design.  Fred Leighton, the boutique, began it’s story in the 1970s, mixing eclectic fashions. The namesake fine estate jewelry store opened officially in 1984. Murray Mondschein purchased the original store, Fred Leighton, in the 70s and made it his own by adding the jewelry selection, which gave birth to a jewelry dynasty. When Murray (who changed his name to Fred Leighton) retired the Kwait family purchased the store, with Greg, who is very involved, leading the helm today.  The brand continues to exude exceptional taste with a touch of old Hollywood allure and offers a wide range of quality examples.  This style has kept them fresh and led to a collection that continues to attract jewelry lovers, stylists, and editors worldwide.

  
Meryl Streep at the Oscars in 2003 wearing a stunning emerald necklace from Fred Leighton. Now featured in the exhibit the Maker & Muse. Women & Early 20th Century Art Jewelry. c.1910.

This time of year they consult with stylists who are selecting special pieces for the most influential red carpet of the year, The Oscars.  The shop provided it’s first piece of jewelry worn to the Oscars in the 1990s, to Nicole Kidman, an vintage Australian Opal choker.  The rest is history. They were so gracious to see me this week, and offer us access to some items that have been worn on the red carpet before, as well as fine fashion examples with an editorial appeal. As the blog’s focus is fashion jewelry and accessories I was interested, in also seeing these stylish fine fashionable examples.

As discussed in the post about fashion jewelry/ textual resources, fine jewelry has had it’s design moments, which have led to pieces that have been influenced by fashion and vintage designer jewelry itself. Fred Leighton has some superior fine estate examples, which are also easily translatable today.  For the newest selection visit the store and ask for the talented buyer Dana or Lindsey (PR), who was our guide into their shiny world. While you are there, you may also see Rebecca Selva (the talent behind many reinterpreted red carpet jewelry designs) fluttering around, working on her next project. As chief creative director, she continues to help fashion the image and feel of the stores selection with grace.

They offered us a first hand peek at past Oscar looks, current Oscar/red carpet worthy glam pieces, and suitable examples influenced by fashion during my visit to the salon. So, if inspiration is what you need and you can’t wait until this Sunday for the Oscars…. we’ve got it, enjoy the glam ride. Here are past looks and current possibilities-

Some of My Favorite Past Oscars Jewelry Picks from Fred Leighton’s Salon:

View image | gettyimages.com. Rebecca Selva converted the collar/hairband used by Natalie Portman in the 2005 Oscars. The mid to late 1800s piece was made into a headband for Natalie Portman to wear.
Jennifer Aniston. Oscars 2014, wearing converted Rebbeca Selva, Fred Leighton dress clips as earrings.
View image | gettyimages.com. Madonna 1998 Oscars. Fred Leighton jewelry.

 

Taraji Henson at the Oscars in 2009. Wearing a necklace from Fred Leighton.

 

2009 Oscars image of Amy Adams in a stunning vintage collar from Fred Leighton.
View image | gettyimages.com. Nicole Kidman, 2011 Oscars. Wearing Fred Leighton necklace.

 

Maggie Gyllenhaal 2010 Oscars bracelet. She wore various Leighton pieces. This 1950s brooch featured a 67 carat emerald. It was converted into a bracelet by the store and Rebecca Selva. Up close it is such an amazing piece. Available at Fred Leighton, 773 Madison Avenue.

Maggie Gyllenhaal 2010 Oscars bracelet. She wore various Leighton pieces that evening. This 1950s brooch featured a 67 carat emerald. It was converted into a bracelet by the store and Rebecca Selva. Up close it is such an amazing piece. Available at Fred Leighton, 773 Madison Avenue.

Here are some of the Oscar worn and red carpet worthy pieces that I found in the salon Images by me), which will give you a clue to the styles that may be worn Sunday at the Oscars. This includes closeups of Maggie’s 2010 Oscar worn diamond bracelet. Fred Leighton has quite a few pieces that will actually be worn this year and as they are revealed we will update this post Sunday. (What are your favorites? Please feel free to comment below.)

50s diamond earrings

1950s 12 carat diamond earrings. Available at Fred Leighton.

1700s earrings

1750s 18K gold amethyst earrings. Over 3″ long. Available at Fred Leighton.

1940s-50s diamond brooch

1950s diamond brooch with detachable earrings. Fred Leighton.

Custom Leighton Piece

Fred Leighton Oscars

Maggie Gyllenhaal worn 2010 Oscar bracelet. Converted 1950s emerald brooch bracelet, Contact Fred Leighton for more information.

 

vintage Cartier

1920s Cartier bracelet, Fred Leighton via the Madison avenue shop.

antique dollar

Antique necklace in the window of the Madison avenue shop.

Fashionable fine jewelry examples from the salon, that would fit into any editorial shoot: 

Vogue Sept 2010 cover

One of my all time favorite Vogue covers shows the editorial- fashion jewelry cross over that they have. Sept 2010. I saved this one in my archives! 1920s diamonds. Fred Leighton. Scan of the cover.

 

60s-70s 18K Tiffany necklace. Fred Leighton

60s-70s 18K Tiffany necklace. Fred Leighton. This was one of my personal favorites.

DSC_0514

Fred Leighton. Contact for more information about the necklace.

DSC_0523

Art deco star pins with what appears to be the original era trumpet clasp. Would be amazing earrings! Contact Fred Leighton for pricing and info.

DSC_0501

Van Cleef & Arpels 1950s 18K gold and diamond clutch

DSC_0517

Contact Fred Leighton for pricing and info.

 

 

 

Jewelry Report Card: H is for Hand Forged

Want a really really good stack, I think I may have the answer for you! This Sunday takes us back in time, in some ways, to when jewelry and items were made by hand, forged in fire- so to speak. We find the jewelry in question, in LA inside a retail concept space called ELU.  I discovered them via instagram, and am hooked on the look and construction of the pieces. The jewelry is substantial and tactile, featuring gemstones hand placed inside the forged metals.  So todays A++ goes to @elu_official as a line to watch, and a page to follow!  Elu was started by Cristina Nicoletti, when she decided to begin selling artisanal luxury goods from all over the world. This led to a meeting of the minds and friends, which evolved into a new creative space in West Hollywood. They also carry bags, perfume, shoes, scarves, hats, and sunglasses. The new jewelry line ELU, definitely caught my eye and is the fruit of a partnership with Evan Sugerman of Parts of Four, which is based in Bali.

I’m a lover and collector of the authentic jewelry of “tribes”, indigenous peoples, and taxco pieces. However, as enticed as I am by such pieces I also love the modernist movements of the 50s and today. Perhaps this is why I am drawn to this line of jewelry so much.  Hopefully, our readers will also see the allure of the pieces by ELU.

What We Covet: 

Why We Follow: 

Elu Los Angeles
8750 Holloway Dr.
West Hollywood, CA 90069
310-358-0910

https://elubycn.com

*All images via ELU online and @elu_official, rights reserved.

Sunday Jewelry Report: A Class In Jewelry Design

Today’s jewelry report card focuses on a relatively new designer, whose pieces are a class in how to push boundaries in jewelry design. I hope that this is a Sunday read that will wake you up and get your jewelry juices flowing! Veronica Fabian gets an A++ from us for her innovative yet well designed chic approach to this design form. While she doesn’t currently have her pieces listed for sale online, she does have a portfolio style website, where one can contact her. The artist has a BA in jewelry design from the University of Arts in London. Her award list spans 2016-2018 and it is not a short list. She has been shown in museum exhibits and her latest works which I will highlight here in the order of which I love most, will surely inspire.  Her history is one that starts with an artistic family, turns to economics and banking, and inevitably reverses back to the jewelry art form.

One can see she is drawn to themes in jewelry like chains and traditional aspects which she then turns on their head and elevates.  Her pieces could easily translate on the runway or the museum floor. They touch on human themes and women’s rights in constructed and narrative ways as well.  So without further ado my favorite pieces and where to follow her work.

VERONIKA FABIAN:

Why We Follow Her:

Diane Love For Trifari Exclusive Design Archive

A few years ago I sat down with artist Diane Love to go over her career, vintage designs she did for Trifari, and her fine pieces. I was lucky enough to interview her and gain access to all of her original samples which we have included here: Diane Love Archive. Please browse and learn about all the wonderful designs she did for Trifari, as her pieces only had hangtags and were not signed, thus they are often misattributed. Read the interview Here

English Antique Jewellery and Ebay

This morning we are going to indulge a guilty pleasure vie ebay. It is not often one can find the glorious amount of quality antique pieces, the likes of those we will explore today via our A++ instagram account to follow @englishantiquejewellery.  I stumbled across this jewellery shop and have become a bit smitten.  I think they appeal to me because their finds remind me of those precious little unique antique relics I found as a young child, which led me to collect vintage jewelry. They seem to have bottled that magic feeling of discovery.  The owner’s eye is such that they present the shopper with the opportunity to explore the world of true antique jewelry in all mediums. Pieces from the Victorians and the 1920s, lush silvers, and detailed artifacts. Now, since one has to be on top of such auctions to get a chance at the prize, following their weekly sales via ig is a must.  The shop is accessible via eBay only, auctions straight to us from the UK where they reside. The shop has been in business since 2009. To be honest had I discovered them via eBay, the shop’s impact would have been somewhat lost. The array of photography and finds they post on instagram is really impressive and allows them to shine. They post lovely compositions and unique pieces daily. Thus, today’s Jewelry Report Card winner is really for my flea market and antique jewelry lovers, who are always on the hunt for a great score. This secret source will not disappoint. So without further ado:

What We Love: ( a tribute to the best pieces they have listed and we have loved). Shop Current Auctions Here.

Why We Follow:

  • All images belong to Antique English Jewelry via their eBay shop and instagram.

Sunday Jewelry Report: Shopping Bow and Arrow NYC

Enjoy an afternoon in the midst of various Native American jewelers, under the roof of a store that celebrates artisans of various Native North American cultures today. Stack the silver and get ready to explore our A++ pick for one to follow on instagram. Firstly, what attracted me to Bow and Arrow NYC, is the way the shop is sort of a new take on the contemporary Native American jewelry gallery. Started in 2011 by Leslie O’Kelley-Maiden, it brings together a group of southwestern indigenous jewelry designers, whose skills with sterling and various stones are evident in their hand made works.  The shop is founded on the stories of it’s designers in a cooperative and beautiful way.  The turquoise they use comes form North American sources as discussed in her link about the stones, here. Their shop’s work has been seen in Porter magazine and on Kesha.

Enjoy the video of how and why she does what she does:

Bow & Arrow X Convicts from Convicts on Vimeo.

Her respect for Navajo (Dine) culture among others resonates with me. Her short film does a great job illustrating the connections between jewelry, artwork, and culture. Not only does the jewelry validate the things discussed in the video above, they are visually beautiful pieces, supporting a continued heritage, and are current in their relevancy.

WHAT WE WANT:

WHY WE FOLLOW: ( She does a great job giving us tips on styling these pieces!)

*All images belong to Bow and Arrow NYC and Leslie via her instagram and website!